On a cool August evening some weeks ago, I had the pleasure of slipping into Shaffa, a moody Middle Eastern restaurant tucked within the Albion 80 precinct in Surry Hills. Although I’d dined at Shaffa before, I wasn’t there for just another dinner. I was there for what the Sydney Jewish community had been whispering about for months: a bold, six-course Kosher set menu from the mind of Israeli hospitality baron and owner Erez Nahum.

The main atrium of the restaurant is sandwiched between a former church and office complex, colliding to create an edgy yet culturally rich ambience for patrons. A glass roof floats above the dining space, allowing light into the venue and mimicking the openness of the shuk (market) in Israel. It is obvious that no small detail has been neglected throughout the interior design process – with an open kitchen concept, orange marble countertops and kerosene-style aerial lamps hovering above each table, creating a feeling of warmth and homeyness.

Despite meeting for the first time, chatting with Erez was like catching up with an old friend. We slipped from English to Hebrew immediately, discovering mutual friends and raving about our favorite Israeli TV shows. We sat down for a very informal interview; with the goal of spotlighting two very special dishes on the Kosher set menu.

Can you explain the meaning of the name “Shaffa” and what inspired the concept behind this elevated Middle Eastern restaurant?

In Hebrew, Shaffa is a slang term for “beautiful girl”. I couldn’t name the restaurant after a “beautiful man” because I thought it’d sound a bit funny! When I think of a physical representation of beauty, I think of a woman or a girl – so the analogy seemed fitting. You’ve seen the interior of the restaurant; I think you’d agree that the beauty and spectacle of the space aligns nicely with this name.

We share your sentiment that food brings communities together – what inspired the decision to introduce a monthly Kosher menu at Shaffa?

Firstly, the demand was huge. Many people in my inner circle often complained about not being able to come to the restaurant and try my food, because it isn’t kosher. People in the community also expressed disappointment about the fact that Sydney is lacking a proper, seated, kosher dining experience. Kosher restaurants do exist, but they are few and far between; and those that do serve kosher food are mostly casual eateries.

Two and a half years into Shaffa’s establishment, we felt settled; prompting the realization that we can now dedicate time and resources to designing and actualizing a Kosher dinner service. I wanted Shaffa to be the first fine-dining restaurant to create this refined dining experience for the kosher crowd. Once we got the ball rolling, people from all different pockets of the Sydney Jewish community contacted us, expressing their support and enthusiasm for the initiative. This gave us the motivation we needed to run these evenings each month; given the considerable time investment that goes into delivering the experience. Koshering the kitchen overnight is certainly a labour of love, but we’re lucky to have an incredibly efficient and organized kitchen team that works around the clock to make this happen. We’ve been on a crazy journey to get to where we are now – but with practice, we’ve been able to perfect our process, and today we operate like a well-oiled machine.

What is Shaffa’s approach to marrying seasonality and Israeli cuisine while maintaining the edge usually expected from a fine-dining experience?

At Shaffa, seasonality is in our DNA. Every dish we serve is designed around what’s in season, and we’re very lucky to have access to some of the best produce in the world. We do our best to utilize local produce to create a menu that aligns with the atmosphere of the restaurant, as well as the current climate and cravings of our patrons. We are constantly experimenting with new ways of showcasing the bold flavours found in Israeli cuisine while catering to Australian tastes. The solution is to take these bold flavours and combine them in a way that is exact and refined. We know that some of these flavours can feel a bit intense for some palates at first, so it was essential that we fine-tune our techniques to create a menu that can be enjoyed by all.

Traditional Kibbeh Nayeh is often made with raw meat – what inspired the creation of a plant-based version?

I’ve always said that Kibbeh Nayeh is the beef tartare of the Middle East. It’s a beautiful dish that I personally love, but I noticed it wasn’t very popular when we had it on our menu previously. I assumed that people avoided it because of their reluctance to try raw meat. Outside of France, even dishes like beef tartare fail to draw in a crowd – which is a shame, because people miss out on the delicious umami notes profiled in one beautiful bite. With all this in mind, I embarked on a journey of developing a vegetarian alternative that captures the same explosive flavours highlighted in traditional Kibbeh Nayeh. I discovered that lentils work perfectly as a substitute, providing the texture and meatiness needed to mirror the original dish. We dressed and seasoned the lentils using traditional spices to create an irresistible, veggie-approved bite.

Kibbeh Niyeh is also traditionally served deconstructed – can you take us through how this dish is meant to be constructed and eaten?

To prepare each bite, we first cook the lentils until tender. We then rehydrate the bulgur and combine it with the lentils, creating the base for the “raw kibbeh”. Separately, we create a paste from capsicum, chilli and spice and combine it with the kibbeh mix, just as raw beef is mixed with capers and aioli to create beef tartare. We prepare a relish from preserved shifka peppers, which is kept separate until assembly. To assemble, we scoop the kibbeh onto fresh lettuce leaves, top with the shifka relish and sprinkle with mint for a hit of freshness. The final product is unique, delicious and lots of fun.

Whole roast cauliflower with tahini is easily one of the most ‘instagrammable’ plates of the decade. What inspired the decision to integrate this showy street-style dish into the Kosher menu?

I’ve tried many different cauliflower dishes throughout my life. Eyal Shani’s take on cauliflower and tahini, served at Miznon restaurants across the world, elevated the popularity of this humble vegetable to new heights. Like Eyal Shani, I wanted to create a dish that was simple but well-executed. I realized that to do this in a way that was delicious yet original, I needed to combine the “best parts” of the cauliflower dishes I’ve loved most, marrying different flavours together to create the ultimate cauliflower dish. This dish is one of our staples and has been on our menu since Day 1. It used to be called “Cauliflower Textures” on our menu because of all the different textures we created for different components, coming together on one plate. The kitchen team does a great job of putting this dish together and I’m very proud of it.

What goes into your Ras-El-Shaffa spice mix?

I can’t give away all of my secrets, but I’ll give you an idea. For context, the name comes from the phrase “Ras-El-Hanout”, which directly translates to “head of the shop” in Arabic. It is an ancient term used to describe a mix of the finest and most luxurious spices a shop merchant has to offer. Naturally, we wanted to create our own, which we refer to as “Ras-El-Shaffa”. It is a mix of allspice, coriander seeds, cardamom, cumin, fenugreek, salt and pepper. I will keep the ratios to myself, but you can enjoy a jar to take home.

Upcoming Kosher Nights at Shaffa will be taking place on 15/09/2025, 03/11/2025 and 01/12/2025.

To receive an exclusive signup link for Kosher Nights, menus, perks and more, sign up to Shaffa’s Kosher newsletter: https://form.typeform.com/to/bU5AbPnO.